Collars of Chivalric Orders: History, Symbolism, and Heraldry
A collar, or collar of an order, is an ornate chain worn around the neck as a prestigious symbol of membership in a chivalric order. Typically crafted from gold and enamel and embellished with precious stones, these collars are a specialized form of the livery collar—the most elaborate expression of livery (the practice of wearing a distinctive uniform or badge) during the Middle Ages and Early Modern Period.
In orders with multiple grades, the collar is generally reserved for the highest rank, often termed the Grand Cross. The chain's links usually feature symbols specific to the order, with a badge—also known as a decoration, cross, or jewel—hanging prominently in the center. For example, the badge of the Order of the Garter is specifically referred to as "the George."
Key Facts
- Purpose: Serves as a high-ranking symbol of membership in knightly or chivalric orders.
- Composition: Usually gold and enamel, often featuring precious gemstones.
- Hierarchy: Typically reserved for the highest grade (Grand Cross) or the Grand Master.
- Heraldry: Often depicted encircling the shield (escutcheon) in a member's coat of arms.
- Tradition: Many orders require the collar to be returned to the issuing authority upon the recipient's death.
The Evolution of the Chivalric Collar
Medieval Origins and the Order of the Collar
The earliest military orders of the crusaders used simple velvet crosses in red, green, or black on their mantles. Over time, symbols evolved into rings, embroidered dragons, and garters. By the late Middle Ages, these insignia became more prominent, leading to the use of medallions and jewels worn on chains known as livery collars.
In the 14th century, Amadeus VI, Count of Savoy, established the Order of the Collar. Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, its primary insignia is a solid gold medallion depicting the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary by the Archangel Gabriel. This medallion is surrounded by three intertwined Savoyan knots and a gold dove representing the Holy Spirit.
The 15th Century: Golden Fleece and Saint Michael
The tradition of specialized devices grew with Philip III, Duke of Burgundy, who introduced the Order of the Golden Fleece. Its collar featured gold filigree plaques, black and white enamel firestones, and a pendant depicting a Golden Fleece.
In 1469, Louis XI of France created the Order of St. Michael, utilizing collars made of scallop shells linked on a chain. This tradition continued through the French monarchy until 1830. In 1945, the Order of Liberation claimed to be its successor, with President Charles de Gaulle wearing a grand collar featuring the Cross of Lorraine.
The English Tradition and the Order of the Garter
The Order of the Garter originally had no collar. However, King Henry VIII sought to align English traditions with those of continental sovereigns. Under statutes signed in 1508, the Tudor-era collar was introduced, featuring golden knots and buckled garters enclosing white roses on red roses.
While most British orders now utilize collars for special "collar days," some exceptions exist, including the Order of Merit and the Distinguished Service Order.
The Shift to Ceremonial Use
By the 18th century, collars transitioned from daily wear to strictly ceremonial use, replaced in everyday life by breast stars and ribbon-suspended badges. As orders became more democratic and introduced multiple ranks, the collar was increasingly reserved for the highest grades, such as Grand Commanders.
A notable exception is Portugal, where all members of certain orders wear a collar, though those for the Grand Cross remain more elaborate.
The Grand Collier de la Légion d'Honneur
In the 19th century, Napoleon I introduced the Grand Collier de la Légion d'Honneur, the first grand collar worn outside of a religious order. While his earlier "Grand aigle" (Grand Eagle) was abolished in 1815, the Grand Collier persists. Today, it is worn by the President of France and foreign heads of state.
Heraldry and Posthumous Traditions
In heraldry, members entitled to wear a collar may display it on their coat of arms. Strict rules govern this placement: the collar typically encircles the escutcheon (shield), though it may be partially hidden or only extend below the shield. For instance, the Danish coat of arms depicts the collars of both the Order of the Elephant and the Order of Dannebrog.
Upon the death of a recipient, the collar is rarely buried with the body. Instead, it may be displayed on a pillow atop the coffin. Many orders mandate that the collar be returned to the issuing authority, often requiring a male relative to perform the return.
Summary of Notable Chivalric Collars
| Order | Origin/Era | Key Visual Elements | Significance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Order of the Collar | 14th Century | Savoyan knots, Annunciation medallion | One of the oldest grand collars |
| Order of the Golden Fleece | 15th Century | Gold filigree, Golden Fleece pendant | Established by Philip III of Burgundy |
| Order of St. Michael | 1469 | Linked scallop shells | Traditional French royal insignia |
| Order of the Garter | Tudor Era | Golden knots, buckled garters, roses | Aligned England with continental styles |
| Legion of Honour | 19th Century | Grand Collier | First non-religious grand collar |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a livery collar and a collar of an order?
A livery collar is a general term for a chain worn as part of a uniform or to show allegiance. A collar of an order is a specific, highly ornate version of this tradition used exclusively to denote membership in a chivalric or knightly order.
Who is typically allowed to wear the collar?
In most multi-grade orders, the collar is reserved for the highest rank, such as the Grand Cross. In some modern contexts, it is reserved specifically for the Grand Master, heads of state, or foreign dignitaries.
How is a collar represented in heraldry?
The collar is usually depicted encircling the escutcheon (the shield) of the member's coat of arms, though it may be partially obscured by the shield or hang below it depending on the specific rules of the order.
What happens to the collar when a member dies?
The collar is generally not buried with the individual. It is often displayed on a pillow during the funeral and must frequently be returned to the order's issuing authority by a relative.
Why did the Order of the Garter add a collar later than other orders?
The Order of the Garter originally lacked a collar, but King Henry VIII introduced one in the early 16th century to ensure the English monarchy matched the prestige and ceremonial standards of other European sovereigns.