Puerto Deseado: Argentina's Historic Fishing Port and Wildlife Haven

Puerto Deseado: Argentina's Historic Fishing Port and Wildlife Haven

Located on the rugged coast of the Santa Cruz Province, Puerto Deseado is a captivating city and fishing port that serves as the capital of the Deseado Department. Situated on the estuary of the Deseado River, this settlement blends a rich maritime history with a thriving industrial fishing economy and breathtaking natural scenery.

With a population of 16,747 as of the 2022 census, the town is characterized by its unique geography and a legacy of exploration that spans centuries, from the first circumnavigations of the globe to modern-day wildlife conservation.

Key Facts

  • Location: Santa Cruz Province, Argentina (47°45′S 65°55′W).
  • Economy: Primarily driven by industrial fishing and fish-processing plants.
  • Climate: Cold semi-desert (BSk) with mild summers and cold winters.
  • Wildlife: Home to Commerson's dolphins, Magellanic penguins, and rockhopper penguins.
  • Historical Significance: Named "Port Desire" by English privateer Thomas Cavendish in 1586.

A Legacy of Exploration and Conflict

The harbor, stretching nearly 32 kilometers, was first discovered in 1520 during the Magellan-Elcano expedition, the first voyage to circumnavigate the world. Over the following decades, it attracted various Spanish expeditions, including those led by Loaísa (1525) and Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa (1579).

In 1586, the English privateer Thomas Cavendish entered the estuary aboard his flagship, the Desire. He named the harbor "Port Desire" (later translated to Spanish as Puerto Deseado) and established Punta Cavendish at the harbor's mouth. During this visit, the crew encountered the Mapuche Tehuelche people, who defended their land with arrows.

The Malaspina Expedition received by the Mapuche Tehuelche in Puerto Deseado (1789) at Museos de Tenerife.
The Malaspina Expedition received by the Mapuche Tehuelche in Puerto Deseado (1789) at Museos de Tenerife.
: The Malaspina Expedition received by the Mapuche Tehuelche in Puerto Deseado (1789) at Museos de Tenerife.

The 18th century saw further strategic attempts to occupy the region. In 1780, Antonio Viedma founded a temporary settlement on the south bank of the river, constructing a fort, hospital, and forge. Later, in 1790, the Real Compañía Marítima (Royal Maritime Company) established a village and fort to serve as a headquarters for fishing posts. This era also saw the shipwreck of the HMS Swift, a British sloop-of-war, which sank on a concealed rock in 1790.

Real Compañía Marítima flag. Founder of Puerto Deseado en 1790
Real Compañía Marítima flag. Founder of Puerto Deseado en 1790
: Real Compañía Marítima flag. Founder of Puerto Deseado en 1790

The town's development continued into the 19th century. In 1833, the HMS Beagle stopped at the port with naturalist Charles Darwin on board. The city was formally founded for a third time in 1882 through funding from Hipólito Yrigoyen, providing settlers with tools and farming land to ensure permanent habitation.

Geography, Climate, and Infrastructure

Puerto Deseado is defined by its cold semi-desert climate (BSk). While rainfall is low throughout the year, the area is frequently cloudy, creating weather conditions similar to those of the British Isles. Residents experience mild summers and cold winters, with occasional harsh frosts and extreme summer heat due to continental influences.

Historically, the town was connected to Las Heras and Pico Truncado via a freight railway line until 1976. Today, the city is primarily accessed via a 120-kilometer secondary road that connects it to the national road system.

Puerto Deseado's old train station (2019)
Puerto Deseado's old train station (2019)
: Puerto Deseado's old train station (2019)

Climate Summary (1991–2020)

Average Weather Conditions in Puerto Deseado
Metric Summer (Jan/Feb) Winter (Jun/Jul) Annual Average
Mean Daily Max Temp 22.3°C to 23.4°C 7.6°C to 8.0°C 15.9°C
Mean Daily Min Temp 10.2°C to 10.5°C 0.1°C to 0.8°C 5.4°C
Avg Precipitation 15.5mm to 21.3mm 24.6mm to 27.0mm 227.6mm
Sunshine Hours (Daily) 7.5h to 7.6h 2.6h to 3.1h 5.1h

Economy and Tourism

The local economy is heavily reliant on the industrial fishing sector. Along the Avenida Costanera, several fish-processing plants operate, employing a large portion of the population as crane operators, stevedores, and fish cleaners.

Tourism focuses on the region's spectacular coastal scenery and diverse marine wildlife. Visitors often tour the estuary to spot rockhopper penguins, Magellanic penguins, and the rare Commerson's dolphin.

Cabot's terns breeding on an islet off Puerto Deseado
Cabot's terns breeding on an islet off Puerto Deseado
: Cabot's terns breeding on an islet off Puerto Deseado

Cultural attractions include two museums: one dedicated to indigenous artifacts and another located on the seafront featuring relics from the HMS Swift, which were recovered after the wreck was rediscovered in 1982.

Cultural Influence

The city's unique atmosphere has inspired various artists. The film Gone Fishing by Carlos Sorín is set almost entirely in Puerto Deseado. In literature, the town serves as the primary setting for Cristian Perfumo's novels The Sunken Secret and The Arrow Collector. Additionally, naturalist Gerald Durrell documented his visit to the area in his 1961 book, The Whispering Land.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who named Puerto Deseado and why?

The harbor was named "Port Desire" by the English privateer Thomas Cavendish in 1586, after his flagship, the Desire. The name was later translated into Spanish as Puerto Deseado.

What is the primary economic activity of the city?

The economy is based on the fishing industry, with numerous fish-processing plants located along the coast and a workforce specialized in industrial fishing operations.

What wildlife can tourists see in Puerto Deseado?

Visitors can observe a variety of marine fauna, including Magellanic and rockhopper penguins, as well as Commerson's dolphins.

What is the significance of the HMS Swift?

The HMS Swift was a British sloop-of-war that shipwrecked on a concealed rock in 1790. Its wreck was discovered in 1982, and recovered relics are now displayed in a seafront museum.

What is the climate like in Puerto Deseado?

It has a cold semi-desert climate (BSk) characterized by low annual rainfall, cloudy skies, mild summers, and cold winters with occasional harsh frosts.

References

  1. The record highs and lows are based on the Deutscher Wetterdienst link for the period 1941–1990 while records beyond 1980 come from the Oficina de Riesgo Agropecuario link since it only covers from 1970–present. As such, the extremes span a period from 1941–present when these 2 sources are used together
  2. fgm847. "Antonio de Viedma y Verdejo, explorador y colonizador". Identidad e Imagen de Andalucía en la Edad Moderna (in Spanish). Retrieved 2024-03-09.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  3. Buscaglia, Silvana (2021). "El campamento provisional de Antonio Viedma (Patagonia Atlántica, 1780) expectativas y desafíos para una arqueología de las ocupaciones coloniales de corta duración". Magallania (Punta Arenas). 49. doi:10.22352/magallanla202149007. ISSN 0718-2244.
  4. Gobierno de Santa Cruz
  5. Southby-Tailyour, Ewen (2014-04-02). Exocet Falklands: The Untold Story of Special Forces Operations. Pen & Sword Books. ISBN 978-1-4738-3689-1.