Parure Jewelry: A History of Matching Gem Suites
In the world of high jewelry, a parure refers to a coordinated set of matching jewelry designed to be worn together. These opulent suites were crafted to create a unified aesthetic, ensuring that every piece—from the necklace to the smallest button—complemented the wearer's attire and status.
The Origins of the Parure in the 18th Century
The concept of the parure gained prominence in the 18th century, with artisans under the reign of Louis XIV credited with some of the earliest inventions. During this era, diamonds were the gemstone of choice, frequently paired with silver to enhance their brilliance.
One of the most illustrative examples of this period was a set created for the wedding of Mademoiselle d'Aubigné. This extensive suite was not limited to traditional jewelry but integrated into the clothing itself, consisting of earrings, two pendants, loops and clasps for the sleeves, 32 buttons, and a large bowknot.
Interestingly, many surviving examples from this period are made of paste—a lead glass used to imitate gemstones. Because paste jewelry had a lower financial value than genuine diamonds, these sets were less likely to be dismantled for the reuse of their components, allowing more complete parures to survive into the present day.
[ไม่มีภาพประกอบ]Imperial Elegance: The Napoleonic Era
The tradition of the gem suite continued into the 19th century, where it became a symbol of power and prestige. Napoleon Bonaparte frequently gifted lavish parures to his first wife, Joséphine, specifically for her to wear during state functions.
Napoleon continued this tradition with his second wife, Marie-Louise. Among the various sets he provided, one notable example was crafted from cut steel, a material created by polishing small facets into steel to mimic the sparkle of diamonds.
The Evolution of Mourning Parures
By the mid-19th century, the purpose of the parure expanded beyond celebration and statecraft. Matching sets began to be produced specifically for mourning wear. These somber suites were typically crafted from jet (a type of fossilized coal) or woven from human hair, reflecting the strict social etiquette regarding grief and remembrance during the Victorian era.
[ไม่มีภาพประกอบ]Key Facts
- Early Influence: Artisans under Louis XIV pioneered the parure in the 18th century.
- Common Materials: Early sets often featured diamonds and silver; later sets included cut steel, jet, and hair.
- Preservation: Paste jewelry is more common in historical collections because it was rarely broken up for parts.
- Imperial Use: Napoleon Bonaparte used gem suites to adorn Empress Joséphine and Marie-Louise.
- Mourning Tradition: Mid-19th century parures were often made of jet or hair for funeral attire.
| Era/Period | Primary Materials | Common Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 18th Century (Louis XIV) | Diamonds, Silver, Paste | Weddings and Court Fashion |
| Napoleonic Era | Gems, Cut Steel | State Functions |
| Mid-19th Century | Jet, Human Hair | Mourning Wear |
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is a parure?
A parure is a set of matching jewelry designed to be worn together as a coordinated suite.
Why are so many "paste" parures still available today?
Because paste jewelry was made of glass rather than precious stones, it had a low value, meaning owners were less likely to break the sets apart to sell the individual components.
What was included in Mademoiselle d'Aubigné's wedding parure?
Her set included earrings, two pendants, loops and clasps for her sleeves, 32 buttons, and a large bowknot.
What materials were used for mourning parures?
Mourning suites from the mid-19th century were typically made from jet or hair jewelry.
Did Napoleon Bonaparte give parures to both of his wives?
Yes, he gave lavish gem suites to Joséphine for state functions and similar sets, including one made of cut steel, to Marie-Louise.