Spats: The Rise and Fall of a Classic Footwear Accessory
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a distinct accessory defined the polished look of the upper class: spats. These ankle coverings, worn by men and occasionally by women, bridged the gap between practical protection and high-society fashion. While they are now viewed as relics of a bygone era, spats once played a critical role in the strict social codes of dress.
What Were Spats?
Spats were protective coverings made of white cloth or felt in shades of grey or brown. They were designed to button securely around the ankle, covering the top of the shoe and the bottom of the trouser leg. While they served a practical purpose—shielding shoes and socks from rain and mud—they evolved into a symbol of style and status.
The etiquette surrounding their use was precise. In her 1931 publication, Etiquette: The Blue Book of Social Usage, Emily Post noted that while spats were optional, they were required to match the wearer's gloves exactly if they were chosen.
The Decline of the Spat
The popularity of spats began to wane during the 1920s, driven by a broader shift toward informality in civilian dress. This transition was often signaled by the choices of influential figures, most notably King George V.
The Influence of Royalty
Royal fashion often set the tone for the public. In 1913, the importance of spats was evident when Griffith Taylor's friends scrambled to find a pair and a top hat so he could properly receive the Polar Medal from King George V. Even as late as 1923, the King wore spats, a frock coat (a formal knee-length coat), and a gray top hat to open the Chelsea Flower Show.
However, a pivotal moment occurred in 1926. King George V shocked the public by opting for a black morning coat instead of a frock coat and choosing to omit his spats. This subtle change in attire had an immediate effect; spectators reportedly discarded their own spats on the spot, leaving the ground beneath the bushes littered with the accessories.
Changing Trends for Women
For women, the decline of spats was tied to the evolution of footwear and hemlines in the 1920s. As skirts became shorter, women began wearing open-topped shoes featuring intricate straps and cutouts. Because these visual details were meant to be seen, the covering nature of spats became obsolete.
The Final Transition
By the mid-1930s, spats had lost their association with exclusivity. In 1936, the Associated Press reported from New York that well-dressed men were abandoning spats because the accessory had become common among the "rank and file." This shift led to a forecast that high-top shoes with cloth uppers would replace the traditional spat.
Key Facts
- Materials: Typically made from white cloth or grey and brown felt.
- Function: Originally designed to protect footwear from mud and rain.
- Etiquette: According to Emily Post, spats had to match the wearer's gloves.
- Turning Point: King George V's decision to stop wearing them in 1926 accelerated their demise.
- Women's Fashion: Rising hemlines and decorative open-topped shoes reduced the use of spats for women.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Peak Usage | Late 19th to early 20th century |
| Common Colors | White, Grey, Brown |
| Primary Purpose | Protection from elements and fashion statement |
| Reason for Decline | Increased informality and changing shoe styles |
Frequently Asked Questions
What were spats used for?
Spats were worn over the ankles to protect shoes and socks from rain and mud, while also serving as a stylish accessory for formal dress.
Who wore spats?
They were primarily worn by men, though they were also worn by women, particularly before the fashion shifts of the 1920s.
Why did people stop wearing spats?
The decline was caused by a general move toward informal dress, the influence of King George V discarding them in 1926, and the rise of decorative women's shoes that were meant to be visible.
What was the etiquette for wearing spats?
According to Emily Post's 1931 etiquette guide, if a person chose to wear spats, they were required to match their gloves exactly.
How did the 1920s affect women's use of spats?
Rising hemlines allowed women to showcase more intricate footwear with straps and cutouts, making the covering provided by spats undesirable.