James MonroeHighlandVirginia plantationsCollege of William and MaryAsh Lawn-Highland

James Monroe's Highland: The History of a Presidential Estate

James Monroe's Highland: The History of a Presidential Estate

Nestled in the landscape of Virginia, James Monroe's Highland stands as a testament to the early American republic. Established by the fifth U.S. President, this estate evolved from a modest wooden dwelling into a sprawling plantation, eventually becoming a preserved site of historical study and public education.

The Establishment of Highland

In 1793, encouraged by his close friend Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe purchased 1,000 acres (4 km) of land adjacent to Monticello from the Carter family for one thousand pounds. This land had previously been part of a larger 10,000-acre grant owned by Secretary John Carter. Monroe and his family moved onto the plantation six years later, residing there for the next twenty-five years.

In 1800, Monroe described the original residence as a one-story wooden dwelling house with brick-filled walls, measuring 40 by 30 feet, with an additional wooden wing measuring 34 by 18 feet. Over the following 16 years, Monroe expanded the home by adding a second story and stone cellars. His land holdings also grew, peaking at over 3,500 acres (14 km). However, financial pressures led Monroe to sell portions of his land to settle debts, and by 1825, he was forced to sell the entire estate.

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Life and Labor on the Plantation

Highland was a thriving agricultural operation that relied on the labor of 30 to 40 enslaved people. While their original housing no longer exists, historical records indicate a social divide in living arrangements: domestic slaves lived in close proximity to the Monroe home, while field hands were housed at a distance from the main residence.

Evolution of Ownership and Architecture

Following Monroe's departure, the property passed through several owners. Edward O. Goodwin purchased the land at twenty dollars per acre and renamed it "North Blenheim." At the time of sale, the estate featured a commodious dwelling house, servant buildings, stables, two barns with a threshing machine, and both a grist mill and a sawmill.

The property changed hands again in 1837 when Alexander Garrett renamed it "Ash Lawn," a name that persisted until 2016. In 1867, John E. Massey purchased the estate, and his family held it for sixty-three years, adding architectural elements that give the house its current appearance.

The final private owner was philanthropist Jay Winston Johns of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, who bought the property in 1930. The Johns family opened the home to the public, and upon his death in 1974, Johns willed the estate to James Monroe's alma mater, the College of William and Mary.

Highland Today

Now officially redesignated as James Monroe's Highland to better honor its first owner, the site is a 535-acre (2.2 km) working farm and museum operated by the College of William and Mary. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (added in 1973) and serves as a performance site for the arts.

The current grounds include:

  • An 1818 guest house and an 1850s addition.
  • An 1870s Victorian-style farmhouse.
  • A reconstructed three-bay slave quarter and a gable-roofed ice house.
  • A smokehouse with a pyramidal roof and an overseer's cabin with an exterior end brick chimney.

The estate has gained further visibility through features on C-SPAN's Cities Tour and Bob Vila's Guide to Historic Homes of America.

The Discovery of the Original Mansion

For years, the existing main house was believed to be an original wing of Monroe's residence. However, archaeological evidence has revealed the foundations of a much larger home, which is now presumed to be Monroe's actual primary residence. This discovery was supported by dendrochronology—the scientific method of dating tree rings—which determined that the current structure was built from trees harvested between 1815 and 1818, post-dating Monroe's move into his mansion in 1799.

Key Facts

  • Founder: James Monroe, purchased in 1793.
  • Peak Size: Over 3,500 acres.
  • Current Status: 535-acre working farm and museum.
  • Management: Operated by the College of William and Mary.
  • Historic Designation: Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.
  • Key Discovery: The current main house is actually an 1815-1818 guest house; the original larger mansion's foundations were found via archaeology.
Chronology of Highland's Ownership and Names
Era/Owner Property Name Key Development
James Monroe (1793–1825) Highland Established plantation; expanded to 3,500 acres.
Edward O. Goodwin North Blenheim Purchased at $20 per acre.
Alexander Garrett (1837) Ash Lawn Renamed the property.
Massey Family (1867–1930) Ash Lawn-Highland Added architectural features to the house.
Jay Winston Johns (1930–1974) Ash Lawn-Highland Opened the house for public tours.
College of William & Mary (1974–Present) James Monroe's Highland Converted to a museum and working farm.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why was the property renamed in 2016?

The name was changed from Ash Lawn-Highland to James Monroe's Highland to more clearly communicate the estate's relationship to its original owner and the fifth U.S. President.

How do historians know the current house was a guest house?

Archaeologists discovered the foundations of a larger home, and dendrochronology (tree-ring dating) showed the current house was built from trees harvested between 1815 and 1818, which is after Monroe had already moved into his main mansion.

Who currently manages the estate?

The estate is operated by the College of William and Mary, which received the property as a bequest from Jay Winston Johns in 1974.

What structures can visitors see at Highland today?

Visitors can see the 1818 guest house, a Victorian farmhouse, a reconstructed slave quarter, a reconstructed ice house, a smokehouse, and an overseer's cabin.

How large was the estate at its peak?

At its greatest extent, James Monroe's land holdings at Highland included over 3,500 acres (14 km).

References

  1. "National Register Information System". National Register of Historic Places. National Park Service. July 9, 2010.
  2. "Virginia Landmarks Register". Virginia Department of Historic Resources. Retrieved May 12, 2013.
  3. Matt Kelly. "Excavation May Add to Monroe Hill’s Historic Record". University of Virginia, June 7, 2023. Accessed June 9, 2025.
  4. Fennell, Christopher. "An Account of James Monroe's Land Holdings". histarch.illinois.edu. Retrieved March 22, 2024.
  5. An Account of James Monroe's Land Holdings by Christopher Fennel