Everest 1996 Disaster: A Timeline of the South Col Tragedy
On May 10, 1996, a series of unfortunate delays and a sudden, violent storm converged on the slopes of Mount Everest, leading to one of the most infamous tragedies in mountaineering history. What began as a coordinated summit attempt by multiple expeditions turned into a desperate struggle for survival above the death zone.
The effort involved two primary commercial teams: Adventure Consultants, led by Rob Hall, and Mountain Madness, led by Scott Fischer. They were joined by a government-sponsored expedition from Taiwan. Together, these groups attempted to reach the highest point on Earth from Camp IV, located on the South Col at 7,900 meters (25,900 ft).
Key Facts
- Date of Event: May 10–12, 1996.
- Critical Locations: The Balcony (8,350m), the Hillary Step (8,760m), and the South Summit (8,749m).
- Primary Causes of Delay: Unset fixed ropes and bottlenecks at the Hillary Step.
- Weather Event: A full-scale blizzard with gusts reaching 70 knots (130 km/h).
- Notable Survivors: Anatoli Boukreev and Beck Weathers.
Delays on the Ascent
The journey toward the summit was plagued by unexpected setbacks. Upon reaching the Balcony (8,350 m), the teams found that the fixed ropes—essential safety lines for ascending steep sections—had not yet been installed, causing a delay of nearly an hour.
A second bottleneck occurred at the Hillary Step (8,760 m), where climbers again found no fixed lines. With approximately 33 climbers attempting the summit simultaneously, a queue formed. This congestion forced some climbers, including Hutchison, Kasischke, and Taske, to turn back to Camp IV to avoid running out of supplementary oxygen.
Anatoli Boukreev, a guide for Mountain Madness climbing without supplemental oxygen, was the first to reach the summit (8,848 m) at 13:07. However, the standard "turn-around time" of 14:00—the latest safe hour to begin a descent to reach camp before dark—passed while many were still climbing.
By 15:00, the weather shifted. Snow began to fall and visibility dropped. While some reached the summit late, including Scott Fischer at 15:45, others like Doug Hansen arrived even later, having run out of oxygen.
Descent in a Blizzard
As the climbers began their descent, a massive blizzard struck the southwest face of Everest. The storm obliterated the trail and buried the fixed ropes, leaving many disoriented. Scott Fischer, suffering from extreme exhaustion and potentially HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) or HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema)—conditions where fluid builds up in the lungs or brain—became unable to descend below the Balcony.
Rob Hall remained high on the mountain to assist Doug Hansen, who had fallen unconscious. Meanwhile, a group of climbers, including guides Beidleman and Groom, became lost in the whiteout, eventually huddling near a precipice on the Kangshung Face.
Anatoli Boukreev, who had descended to Camp IV early to prepare supplies, performed a series of heroic rescues. Despite the exhaustion of his own climb, he ventured back into the storm three times, successfully escorting Pittman, Fox, and Madsen to safety, and locating Yasuko Namba.
For his valor, Boukreev was later awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club.
The Aftermath of May 11
By the morning of May 11, Rob Hall radioed Base Camp from the South Summit. He confirmed that Doug Hansen had passed away and that guide Andy Harris was missing. Hall, whose oxygen regulator was frozen shut, spent his final hours communicating with his pregnant wife via satellite phone before freezing to death in his sleep.
In a miraculous turn of events, Beck Weathers, who had been presumed dead after disappearing into the storm, regained consciousness and walked back to Camp IV on his own. Though he suffered severe frostbite—resulting in the loss of his nose, right hand, and several fingers—he was eventually evacuated via a record-breaking high-altitude helicopter rescue.
Scott Fischer's body was discovered by Boukreev at approximately 19:00 on May 11. Makalu Gau, who had been stranded with Fischer, was successfully rescued by Sherpas and evacuated by helicopter.
| Name | Role | Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Rob Hall | Guide (Adventure Consultants) | Deceased |
| Scott Fischer | Guide (Mountain Madness) | Deceased |
| Anatoli Boukreev | Guide (Mountain Madness) | Survived / Rescuer |
| Beck Weathers | Client | Survived |
| Doug Hansen | Client | Deceased |
| Andy Harris | Guide (Adventure Consultants) | Deceased (Missing) |
Frequently Asked Questions
What caused the delays on the way to the summit?
The primary delays were caused by the absence of fixed ropes at the Balcony and the Hillary Step, which forced climbers to wait for guides to install them. This created a bottleneck of approximately 33 climbers.
What are HAPE and HACE?
HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) are severe altitude-related illnesses involving the accumulation of fluid in the lungs and brain, respectively, which can lead to incapacitation and death.
Why was Anatoli Boukreev's decision to climb without oxygen controversial?
Jon Krakauer criticized the decision, arguing that without bottled oxygen, a guide is less capable of physically assisting struggling clients. Conversely, supporters argued that bottled oxygen provides a false sense of security.
How did Beck Weathers survive?
After being left for dead in the storm, Weathers regained consciousness and walked back to Camp IV. He was later evacuated by a high-altitude helicopter rescue, though he suffered permanent limb loss due to frostbite.
What happened to the bodies of the deceased?
Rob Hall's body was found on May 23 but left on the mountain per his wife's request. The bodies of Doug Hansen and Andy Harris were never recovered.